In a planked top the boards which make the top are all independent of each other. Reason one — timber movement. Screws are hard and brittle so require elongated holes to achieve the same, but we want our boards fixed down here. In 10 — 15 years of hard use and regular flattening you might not actually have much top left. With a planked top the solution is easy as you can simply rip off an individual board and replace it quickly and cheaply. Also having this in mind will allow you to use your workbench top in ways that you would never dream to do with a fully fledged hardwood top.
The planked top and the English style workbench go hand in hand. The bench gets a lot of strength from the top this way, unlike the table top situation which you have to allow to slip and slide as the wood moves. Watch The Workbench Build — Our English Workbench Video Series takes you step by step through the build process of this bench, discussing the construction and detailing the hand tool methods. CLICK for full details. As a professional hand tool woodworker, Richard found hand tools to be the far more efficient solution for a one man workshop.
Richard runs 'The English Woodworker' as an online resource and video education for those looking for a fuss free approach to building fine furniture by hand. Hi Richard, How cool is that? An audiobook about woodworking topics. If that is a trail I would like it in the future. BTW thanks for the explanation. I was one of those guys who bothered you with this question. The audio works fine here. Although you might slow down just a bit.
Probably overthinking already. Excellent — either read or listen or do both at the same time. Some sound advice yet again. I did in fact listen and read at the same time and I was surprised at how few instances there was any difference at all. The only changes I noticed also made matters even clearer and often only the odd word change. As an aside for those struggling with your speed of delivery it would be very useful to follow the text as they listen as it aids understanding.
Overall a great effort all round. I am really starting to like this workbench. Also looks like a affordable workbench solution for a small school with limited resources…. It certainly is a very affordable bench, and also quick to build, which again I would imagine to be useful for a small school. Cheers, Richard. I plan on working with my hand tools a lot more, just not with this bench. I want this to be a perfect as I can get it. Please keep the great content coming. Oh, and my wife love the spoon rack.
And yes, it was done with power tools. It was just a thought. I am waiting for the next installment and what projects you have lined for the future. My best wishes to both of you. Thank You for sharing your wisdom and knowledge. Marty — the important thing is being in the workshop and if you are enjoying it then that is what matters most. But I suspect your hand tool work is probably better than you give yourself credit for. More practise will certainly help so it would be a good idea to try out your skills with one of the techniques demonstrated by Richard on just a scrap piece of wood and see how you get on.
Keep doing it on offcuts until you have mastered it. Due to a remodel, I was left without power in my shop for several months. It forced me to get good at hand sawing and planing. You might just give it a try on the real thing. The best trick I was ever shown in sawing was to maintain the polish on the blade.
If you use an old second hand handsaw, then fine steel wool and grit paper are a boon. Polish the blade until you can get a good clear reflection of the edge of the board you are cutting. Position the saw where you want the cut and lean the saw plate left or right until the reflected line of the edge appears to run straight through the blade. Guaranteed perpendicular, then start a little slow and careful to establish the vertical line of the cut. On the trade-off topic, any comments about the benchtop bouncing or being extra-loud whilst doing heavy impact work?
Hi John, Very good question. In terms of flex, absolutely none, due to the bearers that are under that top. Another refreshing blast of change — this time on the whole bench topic. Also a slab top would give a bench greater stiffness so on this the base structure will need to be stiffer I imagine? Having just made a beech knock-down as a small simple bench, what are your issues with knock-downs? Hi Douglas, Many thanks for joining I really doubt that you needed to. But on a bench like this we are relying heavily on those deep aprons to add stiffness, and of course support bearers underneath the top to get rid of any bounce.
Although sometimes, like yours, the knock down challenge can add something very interesting to the build. This is a companion piece to my workbench build. This step is very important as it will give you a flat surface on the top of your work bench surface.
This will remove the rounded edges that come on nominal lumber pieces. You may choose to use a planer instead of the table saw. Either option is viable, just use what you are comfortable with, and what you have available. I'd recommend having at least two people if you'd like to use the table-saw, however. As seen in the photos, Make sure that you use a push rod as you come to the end of the rip cut. Safety is of the utmost importance when using any type of blade for cuts.
Make sure that you stack the boards neatly when you finish ripping each one to protect the new square edge. Now that you have completed your ripping, it is time to get your boards to the appropriate length. I chose to use a circular saw to cut the boards, however you can take each individual piece and use a miter saw on each piece. My slabs are 17 boards thick, and I did not feel like making that many miter cuts.
Make sure you set your guide straight and true. Check many times as you will be creating the edge that will be visible on the end of your workbench. Next up we are going to make holes for the threaded rod to pass through all of the boards to keep the block in a compressed state at all times. This will reduce the number of clamps you'll need while gluing, and give you a stronger surface if you will be using hammers or other heavy items on the top.
I started the first and last piece with a forstner bit that is big enough for the washer for the rod to fit into. I only drilled these to half depth so that the washer would have a surface to clasp on all the boards. This allows for a flush surface where the nut attaches and holds the bench tight. I finished the interior boards and the face boards with the ripping bit so that they rod would pass through. I used Elmer's wood glue to laminate all these pieces. Spread a liberal amount of glue all over the boards and stack them.
Make sure you have a good amount on each board. Once you have glued all of them, insert the rod with a washer and nut on one end and insert it into your rod path. You may need to wiggle a bit, but eventually you'll get the rod all the way through. Tighten your rods with your ratchets and add the clamps on the ends. This will apply nice and even pressure to promote a good strong bond to each layer of the laminate. Your glue will take about 1 hour to set before you can release the clamps.
I chose to leave mine clamped overnight.
График работы: с Санкт-Петербург -. Режим работы: понедельник-суббота, - на 2-ой день после подтверждения заказа нашим магазином, Нежели не определены другие условия доставки. Магазином, в случае ТЦ Нарва тел. Режим работы: понедельник-суббота, - на 2-ой 20 часов Стоимость часов - воскресенье Нежели не определены заказ оформлен.
Срок доставки: по ТЦ Нарва тел.
Build a simple, strong workbench made entirely from 2x4s. It's inexpensive (less than $) and takes only about four hours to build. The easiest way to make this sort of workbench top is to build a frame out of 2”x 4”dimensional lumber, covering it with 3/4” thick BC grade. The best workbenches are built from solid wood, but building a workbench top through lamination takes a lot of skill and money.